Richard Mille Fake Watches At SIHH: HODINKEE’s Pick
With another SIHH in the books, our friends at HODINKEE are recounting their top pick from IWC’s booth. This year marks the 75th anniversary of the iconic “Portugieser” line of watches. To celebrate, IWC has introduced two new references, and a new, proprietary 52000 caliber family. 2015 stands to be a landmark year for IWC, reaffirming our dedication to tradition, innovation, and technical inventiveness. Below, find HODINKEE’s favorite from the new releases.
The 75th anniversary of the Portugieser family has provided a perfect opportunity for IWC to reach into their substantial heritage and incorporate the charm of the original to the DNA of the modern line. And they’ve done just that. The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “75th Anniversary” is the watch that will remain on our minds long past the show’s closing. It’s a throwback done right: proper attention paid to the original while embracing modern innovation. Aside from all that, it’s just a great looking watch.
The new Hand-Wound has caught some criticism for its substantial diameter of 43mm, but we’ll defend it by citing that the watch’s inspiration were also over-sized thanks to the use of pocket watch movements. It is a period-correct nod to the watches that started it all. We’ll note, despite its size, the watch wears well within reason on the wrist, and has no issues slipping under a cuff. We wouldn’t have complained with an execution closer to 38mm, but we can’t begrudge the faithful reincarnation of a classic.
The styling on the dial is the real story here, IWC has nailed it with the new Hand-Wound. It’s a statement in restraint, and further shows their dedication to recognizing a tradition of the past. The dial is signed in the longhand “International Watch Co”, a move that cements the Hand-Wound’s presence as a true statement of history. The typeface of the Arabic numerals further amplifies this personality, while making for a highly legible time reading experience. While the date aperture at 6 o’clock is undoubtedly practical, we wouldn’t call it necessary to the design.
The IWC caliber 59215 at work inside the Hand-Wound is a proven winner, and brings the sophistication of the original firmly into the present with contemporary innovation. Thanks to the 8-day power reserve, the emphasis remains on enjoying the watch on the wrist, rather than winding and maintaining. It looks the part, too, with decorated bridges dominating the view around back.
The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “75th Anniversary” unlike anything we’ve seen from IWC in recent years, and it’s something we’d like to see more of moving forward. IWC enjoys a robust catalog of remarkable watches that brought them to where they are today, and we’d love to see more of that incorporated into the brand at present.